When we all get into collecting watches, we quickly discover the many different styles and complications that are available. For many people, that can be overwhelming. For me, it was exciting because I could see potential uses for nearly every complication and imagine how it might fit into my life.

Over the years, I have owned and worn just about every major style of watch. Divers, chronographs, pilot watches, field watches, and even the ever-popular GADA category have all spent time on my wrist. Some proved incredibly useful, while others never really fit my lifestyle. A moonphase, for example, is interesting, but it is not something I have ever found a practical use for. As time went on, the mystique started to wear off many of these categories, and I began focusing on what was genuinely useful to me.

The two styles that rose to the top were dive watches and GMT watches.

Dive watches are great because I spend a lot of time around water, both at work and in my hobbies. The added water resistance is reassuring, and the dive bezel gives me a simple way to time things. Whether I am cooking, timing machines at work, or keeping track of just about anything else, a dive bezel is one of the most practical tools available on a watch.

GMT watches fit a different need.

I am a night crawler, as we are sometimes called. I have worked 3rd shift for most of my adult life, and long days are common. Twelve- to sixteen-hour shifts are not unusual. When you spend years working nights, it becomes surprisingly easy to lose track of what time it actually is. Some days you go to work when it is light outside and come home when it is light outside. Other days you leave in the dark and come home in the dark. In that fog, having a GMT hand set to indicate whether it is AM or PM can be more useful than most people realize.

I also occasionally work with companies and people overseas and have to operate on their schedules. Being able to set a GMT hand and quickly reference another time zone for a Zoom call or phone call is incredibly convenient.

I do not travel often, which is why a traditional caller-style GMT works perfectly for me. The GMT hand is the hand I am most likely to adjust, making that style of GMT a better fit for my lifestyle than a traveler GMT.

Now that we have talked about why I enjoy dive watches and GMT watches, what are some of my favorite GMT models? A few that immediately come to mind are the Rolex Explorer II, Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT SSK059, Seiko Marinemaster GMT, Rolex GMT-Master II, Tudor Black Bay Pro, Seiko Alpinist GMT, Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT, Longines Spirit Zulu Time, and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT.

The great thing about GMT watches is that there are options available at almost every price point. Whether your budget is Timex, Seiko, Rolex, or even Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time territory, there is likely a GMT watch that will fit your needs. In an upcoming article, I will be covering some of my favorite GMT watches available for under $1,500.

So what does the perfect GMT look like for me?

I like GMT watches that blend multiple worlds together. The Rolex Explorer II, Seiko Marinemaster GMT, and Seiko 5 Sports Field GMT SSK059 are all good examples. For me, the combination of a dive watch and a GMT is the sweet spot.

My favorite current-production dive watch is the Tudor Pelagos. Unfortunately, my disappointment continues into 2026 because Tudor still does not offer a Pelagos GMT that keeps the dive bezel, snowflake hands, and square indices that make the Pelagos so distinctive. If Tudor ever releases that watch, I would be running to my authorized dealer. I have largely decided that watches over the $1,500 price point will be rare purchases for me, and that would absolutely be one of them.

Fortunately, there are companies willing to take inspiration from existing designs and add their own ideas. One example is the San Martin and Watchdives collaboration SN0121B. When it was released, it came in under $300 and delivered almost everything I was looking for. While it is certainly an homage piece, I believe it does enough to establish its own identity rather than crossing into replica territory.

At 39mm, with 300 meters of water resistance, snowflake hands, square indices, a 24-hour inner chapter ring, GMT functionality, and a dive bezel, it checks nearly every box for me. The deep blue color is simply the icing on the cake.

GMT is a great complication to have, whether you are traveling, coordinating with family and friends, handling business across time zones, or simply keeping track of your own day-and-night cycle. I am not saying it is the perfect complication for everyone. However, for many people, I think it is a useful tool that is often overlooked.